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How to Make Palm Container Candles


Start by gathering all the items that you will need. The candle making process will go much more smoothly if everything is readily accessible.

Materials Needed:

Cover your work area with butcher paper or newspaper. Spills or drips are most times unavoidable, and clean up is much easier if you don’t have to clean wax off of your work surface.


Step 1 - Preheat containers

First, you will need to heat your containers. Preheat the oven to around 170°.  Place the containers you will be using on a cookie sheet or pan and put them in the oven. The containers can stay in the oven until you are ready to use them. Heating not only helps eliminate jump lines, but it also helps prevent possible breakage when pouring hot wax into a cold container.  It will also aid in the crystallization process.


Step 2 - Measure out the wax

The amount of wax required should be weighed out. Measuring the palm wax is very easy since it is in granulated form.  Just scoop out the amount that you need, and add it to the pouring pot.  It is a good idea to use a separate pouring pot for scooping and melting.  A plastic cup could also be used to scoop the wax out of the bag if you only have one pouring pot available. 


Step 3 - Melt the wax

The wax will need to be heated to 205oF to 210oF in a double boiler. To create a double boiler, put about an inch of water in the sauce pan, and then place the pouring pot in the water. It is a good idea to add an inexpensive metal trivet or cookie cutter under the pouring pot to elevate it. Doing this ensures the wax is not receiving direct heat from any side. Adjust the heat to a medium-low setting. The water needs to be boiling, but it does not have to come to a rolling boil. If the water is at a rolling boil, it may splatter out of the pan. Check the temperature of the wax occasionally. Adjust the temperature as needed. While the wax is melting you can continue with the next steps, but make sure that the wax is never left unattended.


Step 4 - Measure & add fragrance oil

Once the wax has reached the proper temperature, you are ready to add the fragrance oil. Depending on the wax you are using, you could add 0.5 – 1.75 ounces of fragrance per pound of wax. It is most common to add 1 ounce of fragrance per pound of wax. The fragrance is most accurately measured by weight, but you can also use a tablespoon to measure it if the scale you have does not measure a small amount precisely. A tablespoon is equal to 0.5 ounce. Pour the fragrance into the wax and stir it.


Step 5 - Measure & add dye
(using dye blocks)

Next, add the desired amount of dye. If using dye blocks, the block will melt into the wax more quickly if it is cut into small pieces.  After adding the desired amount, stir the mixture until it is blended thoroughly.  Skip to step 7 if you are using color blocks.


Step 6 - Measure & add dye
(using liquid dye)

If using liquid dyes, just add the desired amount of drops. Since you can not remove dye once it has been added, it should be added sparingly, especially if you are trying to achieve a light color. You can always add a little more if it is not dark enough. After adding the desired amount, stir the mixture until it is blended thoroughly.


Step 7 - Test your color

To test the color, you can drip a small amount of wax onto a paper plate or paper towel. Make sure not to drip the hot wax on your hands. Allow it to harden, and you will be able to see a more accurate representation of the color. You can then add more dye if desired.


Step 8 - Add UV Stabilizer (optional)

At this point, you can add UV stabilizer if you choose. The addition of UV stabilizer will help keep the color from fading if the candles are exposed to UV rays or fluorescent lighting. You would add about ½ teaspoon per pound of wax.


Step 9 - Mix all ingredients thoroughly

Remove the pouring pot from the double boiler. The handle of the pouring pot may heat up slightly, so be sure to use a hot pad or something to protect your hand. You may also want to set the pouring pot on a few paper towels to absorb the water from the double boiler. Stir the wax mixture occasionally as you prepare your containers.


Step 10 - Wick the containers
(without EZ Wick Setter)

If you do not have an EZ Wick Setter, you can also use a hollowed out pen or a straw to aid in setting the wicks. Insert the wick through the pen shaft or straw. Add the Glue Dot, Wick Sticker, or hot glue to the bottom of the wick tab, and then use the pen shaft or straw to press it to the bottom of the container. Pull the pen shaft or straw off the wick, and you are ready to pour into the containers.  Note:  We recommend using the ECO wicks for best results.  You will definitely want to wick up a size or two because palm wax requires a larger wick to burn properly.


Step 11 - Apply wick bars

Center the wick bar on top of the container, pull up gently, and slide the wick into the slit. Do not pull up too firmly, or the wick tab may release from the bottom of the jar. Check again to ensure the wick is centered, and adjust the wick bar if needed. 


Step 12 - Pour the wax mixture

Slowly pour the palm wax into the container at about 205°F making sure not to fill past the widest part of the jar. (There are exceptions to this, such as the tureen jar.) Pour the wax as hot as possible to allow for better crystallization.  This is very important.  If you pour too quickly, the wax may splash up the side of the jar or form small air bubbles on top of the wax. (Note: Set some wax mixture aside for use in filliing relief holes if you choose to make relief holes.  It is not always needed, but better to have them in case there are air pockets when the candle burns.)  The containers can now be left to completely cool. It is best if you move them as little as possible so the wax does not slosh up the sides of the container. Make sure there are no fans or air vents blowing directly on them since you do not want to accelerate the cooling process.



Step 13 - Allow to cool and trim the wick

For best results wrap your candles in a towel and put something over the top of them to keep drafts away (a piece of cardboard over the top works well). When a top layer has formed and the wax is starting to get cloudy, poke multiple relief holes in the candle around the wick. Fill with reserved wax and repeat this process as necessary.  Allow to cool for a minimum of 24 hours, 48 hours works best. 

Trim the wick to 1/4" length using wick trimmers, scissors or nail clippers.  Be sure not to trim them too short because they will not burn properly.


Step 14 - Apply caution label and test burn

It is highly recommended to add a caution label. You may also choose to add labels unique to your business or fragrance name labels.  You will need to test burn after a candle is completely cured.  Note:  Palm wax gets harder over time so don't wick too small if your candle hasn't completely cured yet.


That's it!

Are you ready to give it a try?

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