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How to Make Palm Pillar Candles


Start by gathering all the items that you will need. The candle making process will go much more smoothly if everything is readily accessible.

Materials Needed:

* If you are purchasing one of our Pillar Molds, these items will already be contained with the mold.  You will not need to purchase these items separately.

Cover your work area with butcher paper or newspaper. Spills or drips are most times unavoidable, and clean up is much easier if you don’t have to clean wax off of your work surface.


Step 1 - Measure out the wax

The amount of wax required should be weighed out.


Step 2 - Melt the wax

The wax will need to be heated in a double boiler to 200°F - 210°F. To create a double boiler, put about an inch of water in the sauce pan, and then place the pouring pot in the water.  It is a good idea to add an inexpensive metal trivet or cookie cutter under the pouring to elevate it. Doing this ensures the wax is not receiving direct heat from any side. Adjust the heat to a medium-low setting.  The water needs to be boiling, but it does not have to come to a rolling boil.  If the water is at a rolling boil, it may splatter out of the pan.  Check the temperature of the wax occasionally to make certain it is not getting too hot.  Adjust the temperature as needed.  While the wax is melting you can continue with the next steps, but make sure that the wax is never left unattended. 


Step 3 - Prepare your mold(s)

While the wax is melting, you can prepare your mold(s).  Even when the molds are new, there may be a thin layer of oil in them from the manufacturing process.  Your candles will look best if the wax is poured into clean molds.  To clean them, put a small amount of mold cleaner on a paper towel, and then wipe the inside of the molds thoroughly.  If you do not have mold cleaner available, a Pam type cooking spray would also work.  If you are using a seamless mold skip to step 7.


Step 4 - Put wick in your mold(s)

The wick can be put in the mold before the wax is poured into it.  To do this, cut the length of wick that you need.  (It is better to have too much than not enough, so you might add about 6 inches to the height of your mold.  As you are more comfortable making pillars, you may find you can adjust that down.)  String the wick through the hole in the bottom of the mold leaving a few inches of wicking hanging out.


Step 5 - Anchor the wick at the bottom of the mold

Use the screw to anchor the wick from the outside of the mold. Check to make sure the mold will set flush on your work surface, and adjust the screw if needed.  Put mold putty around the screw to seal the hole completely.  If the mold putty is not added, wax will leak from the bottom.


Step 6 - Anchor the wick at the top of the mold

After you have secured your wick at the bottom, turn your mold over and use the wick bar to anchor the wick at the top of the mold. The wick should be pulled tight so there is no slack in it.  Slide the wick into the slit in the wick bar.  Since there is a chance the wax can leak from the bottom of the mold, place the mold in the pan you selected so any possible leaks will be contained.


Step 7 - Seamless molds

If you are using a seamless mold with a wick pin you will need to seal the hole up with plumbers putty or a rubber mold plug.  You may also want to add tape to secure the putty.


Step 8 - Wick Pin

Once the hole has been sealed you can place your wick pin in to the mold.


Step 9 - Measure & add fragrance oil

Once the wax has reached the proper temperature, you are ready to add the fragrance oil.  Depending on the wax you are using, you could add 0.5 - 1.0 ounce of fragrance per pound of wax.  It is most common to add 1 ounce of fragrance per pound of wax.  The fragrance is most accurately measured by weight, but you can also use a tablespoon to measure it if the scale you have does not measure a small amount precisely.  A tablespoon is equal to 0.5 ounce.  Pour the fragrance into the wax and stir it.


Step 10 - Measure & add dye
(using dye blocks)

Next, add the desired amount of dye.  If using dye blocks, the block will melt into the wax more quickly if it is cut into small pieces.  After adding the desired amount, stir the mixture until it is blended thoroughly.  Skip to step 12 if you are using dye blocks.


Step 11 - Measure & add dye
(using liquid dye)

If using liquid dyes, just add the desired amount of drops.  Since you cannot remove dye once it has been added, it should be added sparingly, especially if you are trying to achieve a light color.  You can always add a little more if it is not dark enough.  After adding the desired amount, stir the mixture until it is blended thoroughly. 


Step 12 - Test your color

When you look at the liquid wax, it will usually look much darker than when it has completely cooled.  To test the color, you can drip a small amount of wax onto a paper plate or paper towel.  (Make sure not to drip the hot wax on your hands).  Allow it to harden, and you will be able to see a more accurate representation of the color.  You can then add more dye if desired.

Step 13 - Add UV Stabilizer (optional) and mixing

At this point, you can add UV stabilizer if you choose.  The addition of UV stabilizer will help keep the color from fading if the candles are exposed to uv rays or fluorescent lighting.  You would add about 1/2 teaspoon per pound of wax.  Mix everything together very thoroughly.  Mixing it for 3 - 5 minutes would be best.  Check the temperature again to make sure it is between 200°F - 210°F.  Remove the pouring pot from the double boiler. The handle of the pouring pot may heat up slightly, so be sure to use a hot pad or something to protect your hand.  You may also want to set the pouring pot on a few paper towels to absorb the water from the double boiler.


Step 14 - Pour the wax mixture

Slowly pour the wax into the mold.  If you pour too quickly, it may cause bubbles to form on top of the wax.  The wax can be poured level with the top of the mold.  After filling the mold, there should be some wax left in your pouring pot.  You will need this wax for the second pour.

Step 15 - Insulating the candle

To help with the optimal crystallization pattern of the palm wax, it is highly recommended to insulate the candles with a towel.  You could also use bubble wrap or anything else that can be used to keep the mold warm and allow it to cool as slowly as possible.

Step 16 - Covering the candle

You will also want to put something over the top of the candle to keep drafts at bay.  For example, a piece of cardboard on either side of the wick pin or wick bar or a box covering it entirely works well.

Step 17 - Make relief holes in the candle

When you can see a "skin" has formed across the wax, use the skewer to poke relief holes.  One on each side of the wick will be sufficient.  Make sure you poke them deep into the candle, but take care not to hit the side of the mold.  

Step 18 - Ready to do the second pour

When you are ready to do the second pour, reheat the leftover wax to about 200°F.  Fill in the holes that you have made in the candle so that the second pour is level with the first pour.  If you fill past the level of the first pour, you will likely see a "seam" line on your finished candle.


Step 19 - Remove candle from the mold

Once the second pour has completely set, you are ready to remove the candle from the mold.  You will need to remove the mold putty and screw from the bottom of the mold first.  After you have removed the screw and the putty, gently slide the mold off of the candle.  If you are having trouble removing it, you can put it in the freezer for about 5 minutes to help the wax release from the mold.  If you still have trouble after putting it in the freezer, you can put it in the freezer for an additional 5 minutes.  Be sure not to leave it in the freezer too long or your candle could crack, and it could fall apart when removed from the mold.  You can use the wick as leverage to help remove the candle, but be careful not to pull too hard on the wick as it may break or come out of the candle.  If you used a wickpin, you may remove it and slide your wick into place.

Note: We recommend using the ECO wicks for best results.  You will definitely want to wick up a size or two because palm wax requires a larger wick to burn properly.

Trim the wick to 1/4" length using wick trimmers, scissors or nail clippers.  Be sure not to trim it too short because it will not burn properly.  It is highly recommended to add a caution label.  You may also choose to add labels unique to your business, fragrance name labels, or other packaging.


That's it!

Are you ready to give it a try?

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