- Candle SuppliesContainersFragrance OilsCandle ContainersContainersCandle WicksCandle Molds
- Candle Making University
- Customer Service
- About Us
For your convenience, we have categorized several questions by category to help you find the answer to your question quickly. Visit the Lone Star Candle Making University for more helpful information.
Yes, they are sold separately.
This is called crystallizing, and it does not happen very often. It does not do anything to degrade the quality of the fragrance. The crystals need to be dissolved back in to the fragrance mixture before using it because these are components of the fragrance. The crystals will dissolve when the fragrance is heated slightly. You can put the fragrance bottle into a bowl of very warm water to allow it to heat the fragrance. You may also need to shake the fragrance to help the crystals disperse.
Many of the containers we offer have more than one lid that is compatible. Each individual container page will have links to the lid(s) that fit that specific jar. If there are no lids listed, then we do not carry a lid that will fit that container.
The Keepsake, Victorian Keepsake and 4 ounce Apothecary containers all come with the lid. These are not available without the lid. The Anchor Country Comfort and Libbey Storage containers are available lidded with the bubble lid, and they are also sold separately if you prefer a different style lid.
Yes, you can order lids without ordering containers. Please make sure the lid is compatible with the container you are ordering.
The diameter of the container will be the widest point across the jar. Some jars will have a smaller mouth than the rest of the jar; make sure you are measuring the widest point of the jar.
The wax should be poured to the widest point of the jar. If you have a container that is egg-shaped or is much wider in the middle than at the top, you may notice that the wax shrinks down some on top. When you are filling into the smaller neck of the container, the top of the wax will tend to cool faster than the middle because it has a smaller surface area, and it will tend to shrink in the center.
We keep the ounce measurement on the containers that are provided by the manufacturer. Unfortunately, this measurement can vary sometimes. For this reason, we have the actual dimensions of the jar listed. Please keep in mind these dimensions are the fillable portion of the container; it does not include the neck or lid.
There are benefits to both types of dye, but your choice will ultimately depend on your personal preference. Because the liquid dyes come with a dropper, they are extremely easy to measure and blend very quickly with the wax. You simply count the number of drops you use per pound, make note of the amount, and this ensures you get a consistent color with every batch you make. The dye blocks are also very easy to use. Depending on the size batch you are making, you may add one full block or a partial block to achieve the desired color. With each type, you are able to vary the shade by using more or less dye, or you can also blend different dyes to create unique or unusual colors.
The amount of dye that you use will depend on the color you are trying to achieve. For lighter colors, use less dye; for darker colors; use more. You can test the color of the wax by dripping some out onto a paper plate (or something that would not be damaged) and letting it cool. It is always a good idea to err on the side of adding too little. You can always add a little more to darken it, but it is difficult to lighten the color once the dye is added. For the liquid dyes, you may start with 1 drop per pound for light colors, but not go over around 8 drops per pound for darker colors. The dye blocks can color anywhere from 5 - 25 pounds per block depending on the shade you are trying to achieve.
The dyes that we carry are not safe to use in any body products. Because they are not formulated for use in body products, they would stain your skin if they are used.
The liquid dye is very hard to clean up, so the best solution is prevention. If you do spill some of the dye, blot up as much as you can using a paper towel or something disposable. (Don't wipe it off or you may end up smearing it.) Depending on the surface it was spilled on, you may be able to use WD-40 or a citrus based cleaner to help remove it.
The droppers that come with our dyes are extremely convenient and make it easy to add a precise amount of dye. If the dye gets into the bulb of the dropper, it can tend to make the rubber dry out and deteriorate. Making sure you don't leave dye in the bulb and storing the bottles upright will help your droppers last longer.
The hot pink dye is the only one we carry that tends to not show its color until the candle has completely set. Because of this, it is a little harder to experiment with different shades. When using this dye, trusting the percentages given online is important. You would add around 1 - 2 drops per pound for a light shade, and as many as 8 drops per pound for a darker shade.
Crayons are not recommended for use as dye in candles. The wax used in them is different than candle wax since it is not meant to be burned, and when you use them as dye they will tend to clog the wick as the candle burns. If they are used, your candle will not burn properly.
The waxes that we carry will hold varying amounts of fragrance. It could range from 0.5 – 1.5 ounces of fragrance per pound of wax. Votive and pillar waxes will usually hold a maximum of 1 ounce per pound, and single pour container waxes can usually hold as much as 1.5 ounces of fragrance per pound. The wax can only absorb a certain amount of the fragrance oil, so make sure to check you are not exceeding the recommended amount. For soy candles, the maximum amount you should use is 1 oz. of fragrance per pound of soy wax.
There are many variables that can cause a candle to not have a good scent throw when the candle is burning. Some of these factors include how much fragrance you use in making the candle, the temperature at which the fragrance is added, the size of the wick, what type of wax you are using, too much dye in the candle, etc. Our fragrance oils are high quality oils and most likely the problem is with one or several of these factors. It is always very important to do test burns when you try something new.
The pricing information for the fragrance oils can be found on the individual fragrance oil pages. Pricing on fragrances will vary.
The prices of the fragrances are based on the materials it takes to create them. Some of the raw materials are more expensive than others, so that is reflected in the price of the individual fragrance. The fragrances that are more expensive cost more to produce.
You are able to change the name of the fragrance if you wish. Some fragrances may be widely known by a certain name, so they may be more readily recognized if you do leave the names the same. Also, it may be easy to forget what the original name might have been, so if you do change the name make sure to keep a master list of the fragrances that you have used and the names that you have changed them to so you are able to reorder the fragrance when it is time.
"Type" appearing by the fragrance name simply indicates that it is a duplicate of a trademarked fragrance name. If you use the name as it appears on the bottle, make sure you include "type" to indicate it is not the original.
Fragrance oils will last up to a year or longer if they are not exposed to extreme temperatures. If the fragrance has gone bad, you are usually able to tell that the smell is different. If you are unsure if a fragrance is still okay to use, you can always test a small sample before making a large batch.
There is nothing wrong with the fragrance when the sides of the bottle are caved in a little. This is called paneling, and it is a reaction that the plastic has with the fragrance oil that causes air to escape. We have our bottles specially treated to help prevent this, but unfortunately, it can still happen. The fragrances with a citrus smell are most likely to have this problem.
Our fragrances can be used in reed diffusers. You will need to mix the fragrances with a reed diffuser base; you should not use pure fragrance oil in them. (The diffuser base helps the fragrance travel up the reed.)
Because our fragrances have not been tested for that use, we will have to say they are not safe to use in that manner.
We accept returns on fragrance oils as long as the foiled seal has not been broken and it has been within 30 days of purchase. For sanitary reasons, we are unable to accept returns on fragrance oils in which the foiled seal has been broken. Once the fragrances have left our facility and have been opened, we can no longer guarantee that they have not been diluted or altered, therefore, we would be unable to resell them. This policy is in place to protect the quality of our products and ensure the fragrances you receive are safe, sanitary, and have never been altered in any way.
It is best if you add the fragrance first, and then add the dye because it can change the color slightly.
Most of our fragrances are skin safe, but you will need to check each individually. This information can be found on the individual fragrance page.
No. You do not have to dilute the fragrance oils before adding them to the wax.
There are many of our fragrances that are gel compatible. Fragrances that are indicated as gel compatible are compatible with Penreco Versagel. It is important to realize that many of our fragrances may contain just a slight amount of a "polar" ingredient which would cause them to be listed as not gel safe when, in reality, the fragrance may mix into gel. The bottom line is to test for yourself to find out which ones work for you.
Flash point is the temperature at which a fragrance can ignite when it comes in contact with an ignition source such as an open flame or a spark. It is still perfectly safe to heat a fragrance higher than its flash point provided there is no ignition source. Flash point is very important when using fragrances in gel candles. Most gel manufacturers recommend using a non-polar fragrance with a flash point of at least 170° F. You can find the flash point of each fragrance listed on the individual fragrance oil page.
The Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for each fragrance is available on the individual fragrance oil page.
No, none of our products have been tested on animals.
The fragrances that we carry are synthetic or man made. Essential oils are extracted from plant material and, for that reason, are usually much more expensive.
Our fragrance bottles are filled by weight, not volume. Because the densities of the fragrances are different, the fill levels in the bottles will vary as well. The fruity and floral fragrances will tend to have higher fill levels because they are less dense, and fragrance that have a vanilla, cinnamon or nutty smell will tend to have a lower fill level because they are more dense even though both will contain the same amount of fragrance by weight.
Fragrance popularity will vary throughout the year depending on the season. Our fragrances are conveniently categorized many different ways to help in the selection process. You can also find a current list of our top sellers on the homepage.
You can mix fragrances to create new smells. If you are using gel or body products, be sure that any scents that are being combined are safe. It is also a good idea to mix a small sample before combining a large amount of oil in case the fragrances do not smell good together. At times we may post recommended Fragrance Recipes to our social media accounts and/or highlight in our Newsletters.
The industry standard is considered 0.5 ounce of fragrance per pound of wax. For double-scenting, you would use 1 ounce of fragrance per pound of wax. For triple-scenting your candles you can use 1.5 ounces of fragrance per pound of wax. Make sure to confirm the wax you are using will hold that much fragrance. Some waxes are not designed to hold more than 1 ounce of fragrance per pound.
It is probably fragrance oil. Make sure you are adding your fragrance at the recommended temperature, and make sure that you are not adding too much. The wax is only designed to hold a certain amount of fragrance, and if you exceed that amount, it will not blend well with the wax.
We are not able to manufacture custom molds.
The hole in the bottom of the mold is to string the wick through as you are making the candle. You will need to secure the wick at the top and bottom of the mold.
All of our pillar molds have a hole in the bottom to accommodate wicking the candle while it is being poured. You string the wick through the bottom of the mold, secure it at the top and bottom so it can't move, and then you are ready to pour the wax. Some molds have an auto wick pin available that fit them which is a convenient alternative to wicking them while you pour.
The differences in soy and paraffin are explained in our Candle Making University in the Waxes and Additives section.
This is why test burning your candles is important. Some fragrances blend better with soy than others, and being able to smell the fragrance before the candle is lit isn't a guarantee that it will smell the same when it is burning.
It is hard to get a dark color in with the soy because it does not accept the dye as readily as the paraffin wax does. Even if you add a large amount of dye, it will not darken as quickly as paraffin.
If making a lotion or massage candle, the CB-135 would be the best wax to use. It is cosmetic grade, dermatologically tested, and has a low melt point. Be sure to use fragrances and dyes that are also safe for use on skin.
Wax will last almost indefinitely if it is kept in a room temperature environment and if it is kept from getting dirty or dusty.
There are different waxes formulated for different types of candles; you can choose from container, pillar, or votive. Within each candle type, you may have a few waxes from which to choose. Each wax will have its benefits and maybe drawbacks depending on your preference. For example, within the container waxes we have, some are extremely soft and require only one pour, but there is one that is harder and requires a second pour. Within the pillar waxes, you have a choice of one with a more consistent color throughout or one that has a mottled effect. For more information on the different waxes we offer, please see our Candle Making University.
The wax that you choose will depend on the type of candle you are making. Container waxes will tend to be softer because they can adhere to the container they are poured into. Because pillar and votive waxes need to release from the mold, they will have a much harder feel. If you were to try to use a container blend wax in a mold, you would most likely not be able to remove it.
Cutting the container waxes is usually fairly easy. A putty knife or a brownie cutter work very well for being able to cut straight down through the slabs. The pillar and votive waxes are more difficult to cut through since they are harder; using a hammer and chisel is a common way to cut off chunks. You can also score the wax with a utility knife, and then break the scored area against a hard surface. (When doing this, be careful not to cut yourself, and make sure the hard surface that you use will not be damaged.) You can also try our Crafter’s Hot Knife as well.
This is a common occurrence in soy. Make sure you are following the temperature guidelines very closely. The pouring temperature is very important and can help reduce frosting. Sometimes even with following the temperature guidelines closely, frosting can still occur over time.
The pouring temperature may be too hot or too cool. Make sure they are not cooling too quickly; it may cause the top to crack more if you accelerate the cooling. When filling your container, make sure not to fill past the widest part of the jar. When you fill past the widest part, the top will tend to cool faster than the inside and may cause it to sink down more.
Fragrance testing is very important because some will perform better in soy than others. Even when using different blends of soy, you may get varying results.
You may not notice these as much when you pour the candles, but air bubbles can surface as the candle is burning. Small amounts of air may get trapped in the wax when the candle is poured, and when the candle is burning, it is able to release up through the melted wax.
Most likely the cause of your candle not getting a good melt pool is the size wick you are using. Whether you are using a single wick or double-wicking your candles you need to make sure you are using an appropriately sized wick for the diameter of your container. For guidance, you can go to our Candle Wicks page to assist you in your selections. Other causes could be too much fragrance or dye.
This “ball of black” is called mushrooming. All wicks will produce carbon when they are burning; some more than others. Zinc wicks usually produce more of this than some of the “cleaner burning” wicks such as our ECO and CD series of wicks. This mushrooming effect will be reduced if you make sure to trim your wick down before each time it is burned.
The wick material you choose will be based on your personal preference. You can learn about the different materials in our Candle Making University - Wicks section. The wick you choose will be based on the diameter of the candle you are making.
All of the wicks that we carry can be used in paraffin. The only wick that we carry that will not work as well in soy is the zinc core wicking. The ECO series wick is specifically designed for soy, and it is even coated with a vegetable based wax.
Many factors can contribute to a wick smoking. The wax you are using, adding too much fragrance, adding too much dye, not trimming the wick, using a wick that is too large for the container it is in, or having the candle burning in a drafty place may cause it. Smoking can also tend to increase when the candle is starting to burn close to the bottom of a container because it is harder for oxygen to reach the flame.
The easiest way to ensure your wick is centered is to use the EZ Wick Setter or Multi EZ Wick Setter. If you do not have one of these, you will have to estimate where the center of the jar is when you are putting in your wick. It helps if you adhere the wick tab to the bottom of the container so that it doesn't move around when the wax is poured. We have Glue Dots to assist with this, or you may prefer to use a hot glue gun. Once the wick is in place in the bottom of the container, it also helps to secure the wick at the top of the container with a wick bar or something that won't allow the wick to lean to one side as the candle cools.
When a container is 4" in diameter or larger, you may find it necessary to use more than one wick per container. If you choose to use multiple wicks, you will need to make sure that you drop down in wick size so the container doesn't get too hot when it is burning. If you are using 2 wicks per container, try to determine what wick would be needed for a container half the diameter you are using, and use that as your starting point.
The longer neck on the wicktab is a safety feature, and it is meant to be in keeping with our caution labels. When the candle reaches the neck of the wicktab, it will extinguish itself. This helps to prevent the candle from burning all the way to the bottom of the container and possibly breaking, which can be a fire hazard.
Because everything you put into a candle will have an effect on the way it burns, it is always important to do a test burn. You may think you have added everything in the proper proportions, but discover a problem when you test burn. This gives you the opportunity to correct the problem before you distribute your products.
The kits that we sell on our website are all prepackaged, so we are unable to make any alterations to the contents.
Since our dyes are oil based, they are not suitable for use with water crystals. Food coloring works very well in them.
No, any of our fragrances can be used with them.
You do not have to get your pouring pot completely spotless before starting your next batch. Once you have finished pouring the wax that is in the pouring pot, you can heat the pouring pot in the double boiler to get the wax to melt off the sides. There should be a minimal amount of wax left in it, and you should be able to wipe it clean with a few paper towels. The small amount of residue left on the side of the pot is not enough to contaminate your next batch. If there is an amount left that is too much to clean with paper towels, you may want to pour a small candle, or have a can that you can pour all of your excess "unusable" wax in.
We are not able to print personalized labels. The only labels we carry are caution labels, and they are preprinted without an area for a company or fragrance name.
The single wick bar is 5" long, so it would be suitable for containers or molds that are about 4-3/4" in diameter. The bow tie wick bar is 3-3/4" long, so it would be suitable for an opening of about 3-5/8".
Wax dipped animals are used as air fresheners, and they are a good alternative in places where you may not be able to burn candles. They are popular to use in a child's room (as long as they cannot reach them) or in work places where candles may not be permitted.
Most stuffed animals will work. You would need to make sure they are clean and somewhat heat resistant.
We have directions for making them listed on our website. It also includes a list of items that you would need to complete them.
No, the wax dipped animals are only used as air fresheners. They are not meant to be burned.
We have directions listed on our website. They will also include a list of items you will need.