Heat wax in a double-boiler system to 175°F - 185°F.
Preheat glass containers to 125°F - 149°F to allow for better side adhesion.
Add fragrance and dye, stir thoroughly, then pour around 160°F.
Allow to cool as slowly as possible. Do not place in a water bath or refrigerator to accelerate the cooling process.
Different wicks may be needed depending on dye/fragrance combination. The HTP wicks have been found to work well in this wax.
NOTE: This wax is one of the best single pour waxes. However, it is so soft and creamy that it can be a little messier to use than some of the other waxes since you have to scoop it out of the box rather than separating slabs of wax. The overwhelming response of our customers has been that the superior results of this product are worth the extra effort to use it. We just wanted to let you know so you can make an informed decision.
Heat wax in a double-boiler system to 165°F - 185°F.
Add fragrance and dye, stir thoroughly, then pour around 150°F-170°F.
Clean molds always produce the best results.
You will need to save some wax to use for the 2nd pour. After the 1st pour, allow candles to cool almost completely, then come back and top them off with the saved wax.
You may accelerate the cooling process by placing the mold(s) into a water bath or the refrigerator.
Heat wax in a double-boiler system to 175°F - 185°F.
Add fragrance and dye, stir thoroughly, then pour between 170°F-180°F.
Clean molds always produce the best results.
You will need to save some wax for the 2nd pour. As the wax from the 1st pour is cooling, you will need to periodically poke relief holes in the candle (about the size of a dime near the wick should be sufficient). This reduces pressure that is built up inside the candle as the wax contracts. If you do not perform this step, the finished candle will likely have a void in the middle.
Once the 1st pour has cooled nearly completely, top the candle off with the 2nd pour. Because this wax needs to contract to come out of the mold, once the candle has cooled, there will be a small space in between the candle and the mold. DO NOT pour the 2nd pour any higher than the original pour or wax will seep down into that space which makes the candle unattractive and very difficult to get out of the mold.
When pouring large pillars, the same process may need to be repeated again with a 3rd pour.
You may accelerate the cooling process by placing the mold(s) into a water bath or refrigerator.
Heat wax in a double-boiler system to 180°F - 185°F.
Add fragrance and dye, stir thoroughly, then pour between 160°F-170°F.
Clean molds always produce the best results.
You may accelerate the cooling process by placing the mold(s) into a water bath or refrigerator.
NOTE: Although this wax in considered a "one-pour" votive wax, we are not stating that it does not shrink at all. The top of the votive will have a slightly concaved shape. Another difference with this wax is that you are usually unable to achieve the smooth, glossy finish that you can with other waxes. Many customers find the end product is still high quality and really appreciate the time they save by pouring only once. Other chandlers are a bit "pickier" about the look of their candles and choose to spend a little more time using the IGI 4794
Heat wax in a double-boiler system to 180°F - 185°F.
Add fragrance and dye, stir thoroughly, then pour around 160°F - 170°F (150°F if pouring into our clamshell molds)
You may need to save some wax for the 2nd pour. This wax usually does not shrink much but it may be required to achieve a smooth finish on top.
NOTE: You will need to test this tart wax with your specific warmer. Not all warmers are the same. Some have a higher wattage bulb in them and melt the wax tarts better than others. (This is why we usually recommend the IGI 4794 for tarts as this wax has a lower melting point which makes it more universal for different warmers.)
Heat wax in a double-boiler system to approx. 150°F.
Preheat glass containers for better adhesion.
Add fragrance and dye (if desired) and stir thoroughly, then pour between 150°F-160°
To optimize the "mottled" effect, allow to cool as slowly as possible. Do not place in a water bath or refrigerator to accelerate the cooling process. Some customers have found that placing the candles in an insulated cooler or box will help slow the cooling process.
For a smooth look, rather than the mottled look, add 1/2 tsp of Vybar 260 per pound of melted wax. You may need to adjust this amount to suit your taste. The use of Vybar increases shrinkage so re-pouring may become necessary.
Heat wax in a double-boiler system to approx. 205°F-210°F.
Add fragrance and dye, stir thoroughly.
Clean and preheat glass containers to approx. 170°F to allow for better side adhesion.
Pour the wax as hot as possible to allow for better crystallization. This is very important. If your temperature dropped when adding the fragrance and dye, heat back up to approx 200°F-205°F and then pour candles slowly. Note: Set some wax mixture aside for use in filling relief holes later.
Allow to cool as slowly as possible. For best results wrap your candles in a towel and put something over the top of them to keep drafts away (a piece of cardboard over the top works well).
When a top layer has formed and the wax is starting to get cloudy, poke multiple relief holes in the candle around the wick. Fill with reserved wax and repeat this process as necessary.
Our ECO wicks have been found to work well with this wax. They DO need to be sized up from what is generally recommended for specific diameter jars. For example, with other waxes besides palm if you would normally use an ECO-10, you will need to use an ECO-12 or ECO-14. You will need to test burn after candle is completely cured. Note: Palm wax gets harder over time so don't wick too small if your candle hasn't cured yet.
Allow to cool for a minimum of 24 hours, 48 hours works best.
Heat wax in a double-boiler system to approx. 205°F-210°F.
Add fragrance and dye, stir thoroughly.
Pour the wax as hot as possible to allow for better crystallization. This is very important. If your temperature dropped when adding the fragrance and dye, heat back up to approx 200°F-205°F and then pour candles slowly into the mold. Note: Set some wax mixture aside for use in filling relief holes later.
Allow to cool as slowly as possible. For best results wrap your mold in a towel and put something over the top of them to keep drafts away (a piece of cardboard over the top works well).
When a top layer has formed and the wax is starting to get cloudy, poke multiple relief holes in the candle around the wickpin. Fill with reserved wax and repeat this process as necessary.
Our ECO wicks have been found to work well with this wax. They DO need to be sized up from what is generally recommended for specific diameter molds. For example, with other waxes besides palm if you would normally use an ECO-10, you will need to use an ECO-12 or ECO-14. You will need to test burn after candle is completely cured. Note: Palm wax gets harder over time so don't wick too small if your candle hasn't cured yet.
Allow to cool for a minimum of 24 hours, 48 hours works best, before removing from mold.